A wave is a disturbance that transfers energy from place to place without transferring matter. Drop a stone in a pond and the ripple travels outward, but a floating leaf bobs up and down and stays where it is. The water goes nowhere; the energy goes everywhere.
Two kinds of wave
- Particles vibrate perpendicular to the direction of travel
- Has crests and troughs
- Light, radio, waves on a string, water surface waves
- Cannot travel through the interior of a fluid
- Particles vibrate parallel to the direction of travel
- Has compressions and rarefactions
- Sound, ultrasound, a pushed slinky
- Travels through solids, liquids and gases
Describing a wave
| Quantity | Symbol | Unit | Definition |
|---|---|---|---|
| Amplitude | m | Maximum displacement from the rest position | |
| Wavelength | m | Length of one complete cycle — crest to crest | |
| Period | s | Time for one complete cycle to pass a point | |
| Frequency | Hz | Cycles per second. | |
| Speed | m/s | How fast the disturbance travels through the medium |
The wave equation
This follows directly from the definitions: one wavelength passes in one period, so the speed is , and since , that is . It applies to every wave there is — sound, light, water, seismic — which makes it the most-used equation in the unit.
| Wave | Typical speed | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Sound in air at | Rises with temperature | |
| Sound in water | Faster — particles are closer together | |
| Sound in steel | Fastest in stiff solids | |
| Light in vacuum | The universal speed limit |
Sound travels faster in solids than in gases, which reverses most people's intuition. The reason is stiffness: in a solid the particles are tightly bound, so a disturbance is passed on almost immediately, while in a gas the molecules must travel some distance before colliding.