Assembling a computer is mostly about sequence and static. The parts only fit one way — connectors are keyed so a reversed plug will not seat — but the order you do things in decides whether the job takes twenty minutes or two hours, and one careless moment can put a charge through a component that kills it without leaving a mark.
The power supply
The PSU converts mains AC into the DC rails the computer needs: +12 V (by far the biggest load, feeding the CPU and graphics card), +5 V and +3.3 V for logic and drives. Two numbers matter when choosing one. Wattage must exceed the total draw of the system with headroom — around 30% is a sensible margin, because a supply running near its limit runs hot and ages fast. Efficiency (the 80 PLUS ratings) tells you how much of the mains power reaches the components instead of becoming heat.
| Connector | Goes to | Note |
|---|---|---|
| 24-pin ATX | Motherboard | The main power connector; often splits 20+4 |
| 8-pin EPS (4+4) | CPU power, near the socket | Easy to forget — the system will not POST without it |
| 6/8-pin PCIe | Graphics card | A card may need two; never use a Molex adapter on a high-draw card |
| SATA power | Drives | Flat L-shaped connector |
| Front-panel header | Case power switch, LEDs, USB | Tiny individual pins; check the manual for polarity |
Ports and what they carry
- USB — the universal peripheral bus. USB 2.0 is 480 Mb/s, USB 3.0 is 5 Gb/s, USB 3.2 Gen 2 is 10 Gb/s. USB-C is a connector shape, not a speed — a USB-C port may be anything from USB 2.0 to Thunderbolt.
- HDMI / DisplayPort — digital video plus audio. DisplayPort generally supports higher refresh rates and multiple monitors from one port.
- RJ-45 — wired Ethernet, 1 Gb/s on almost all current boards.
- 3.5 mm — analog audio, the only analog signal left on most machines.
- Thunderbolt — runs PCIe and DisplayPort over a USB-C connector, which is how external GPUs and high-speed docks work.
Assembly order that actually works
- Fit the CPU into the socket OUTSIDE the case, on the bench. Align the triangle marker; never force it — a correctly aligned CPU drops in under its own weight.
- Apply thermal paste (a pea-sized dot) and attach the cooler. Tighten the mounting screws in a diagonal cross pattern, a little at a time.
- Fit the RAM, pressing until both retention clips snap closed. Use the slots the manual specifies for dual channel — usually slots 2 and 4.
- Install the M.2 drive if you have one. It is far easier now than after the graphics card is in.
- Mount the I/O shield, then the motherboard on its standoffs. Standoffs matter: a board touching the case directly will short out.
- Install the PSU and route the 24-pin and 8-pin EPS cables before adding the graphics card, which will block access.
- Fit expansion cards into the top PCIe x16 slot, then connect SATA data and power to any drives.
- Connect the front-panel header last, checking polarity for the LEDs, then test-boot before closing the case.